Glossary

Fragrance Glossary

accord – several notes combined to create an effect, related to the idea of a musical chord

amber – a blend of fragrant resins, such as strax, benzoin, and cistus labdanum, traditional to the Middle East

ambroxan – a synthetic molecule developed by Firmenich as an ambergris material

designer fragrances – mainstream fragrances that are widely available in department stores

drydown – the late stage of a fragrance that develops after the top and heart notes subside and before the smell completely fade

eau de parfum – 15 to 18 percent dilution of the pure fragrance oil in a solution of 98 percent ethanol and 2 percent water

eau de toilette – roughly 10 percent dilution of the pure fragrance oil in a solution of 98 percent ethanol and 2 percent water

flanker – fragrances that come after the original, using the same name with a different descriptor, same bottle usually with a different ingredient

gourmand – a subset of orientals designed to smell distinctly dessert-like with emphasis on vanilla

heart note – the middle portion of a fragrance, after the top note subsides but before the drydown, often considered the fragrance’s true personality

niche fragrance – fragrance produced in limited quantity and sold in a few shops

sillage – scent trail left by a perfume at a distance from the wearer

top note – the first few minutes of a fragrance, when the materials with the lowest molecular weights and highest volatilities evaporate first

vetiver – extract of the roots of a fragrant grass native to India and planted worldwide, notably in Haiti and Indonesia, with an earthy licorice smell